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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.